Saturday, 11 November 2017

Japanese Garden Tea Rooms

Japanese garden tea rooms:

  • Tokyo:                           Shinjuku Gyoen
  • Kanazawa City:           Kenroku-en
  • Matsumoto City:          Ikegami Hyakuchikutei
  • Uji, Kyoto:                    Marukyu Koyamen Tea Company

I am always ready to observe the peace, calm and solitude found in these kinds of tea rooms. I found they were conveniently quiet, almost empty of people.

There is no choice. There is green tea. In another matcha. I'm always happy to take what there is.

Something about Wabi Sabi (with thanks Leonard Koren)

The beauty of wabi-sabi is a turn of mind, not an intrinsic property of things. In other words, the beauty of wabi-sabi "happens," it does not reside in objects and/or environments. 

Tea house "wabi-sabi" in Kenroku-en gardens

Wabi-sabi is interesting to me because it values "honest" natural processes such as ageing, blemishing, deterioration. As such these processes mirror our own mortal journeys through existence. Accepting such environments inclines us towards a more graceful acceptance of mortality.
More cerebral observers suggest that Wabi-sabi is, at root, an aestheticization of poverty—albeit an elegantly rendered poverty.

Wabi-sabi then is a kind of simple beauty available to us all. 

Tea house in Shinjuku- gyoen, Tokyo

With Kazuyo

With woman who served tea

Kanazawa: Kenroku-en tea house

Ikegami Hyakuchikutei: Tea Garden in Matsumoto 

Clean, maintained but worn gardens at Matsumoto

Uji Tea Factory tea rooms

Happy tea drinking!

Tuesday, 13 June 2017

Matsumoto, Tea, Black Castles and No More Money

Fortune Cookie:


Seven falls, eight getting up.

Matsumoto was quite difficult to get to.

I took two trains to Bessho near Ueda City. After a few days there a minibus called at my inn and took me (door-to-door) to my ryokan in Matsumoto. I found travel arrangements in Japan to be exceptional in their convenience. They were a new high in my experience of these things.

My reception there was as cold and unpalatable as Bessho's was warm and excellent. This was only in a single inn but notable nevertheless. In fact it was one of the worst receptions I can remember although the hotel in Kyoto came very close.

Towards the mountains and Mount Kasumizawa in particular.

When I arrived at the foot of the mountain there was not the bus there I expected to carry me toward the hot spring on the mountain side. I could have got a cab but Japan, after three weeks was starting to bite. Three thousand dollars in the budget but I was starting to dine at convenience stores even there I bought an apple for 200 yen.

This nice woman had a shop full of everything sencha, hojicha, gyokuro, karigane, bancha, even a warming cherry and chilli drink.

A cornucopia of sencha

Whenever anyone discovered I was travelling to Matsumoto they insisted I visited the black castle or Crow castle as the locals call it.

Back at my distinctly frosty ryokan I settled down for a pot of common or garden sencha. As it was loose I didn't know its provenance but I was still just happy that green tea was provided in these rooms complete with caddy, cups and kyushu tea pot.

The taste: savory and saline, with a faint sweet grassy, seaweed undertone. It was a cheap brawny infusion; which is what you might expect. It's unlikely I was going to find ceremonial grade matcha in my room. My experience was affected by the ambiance and the kind of day I had. A flaneur's day in part and Wordsworthian in the other part.

There was a lot of happiness to it.

Black Castle at Matsumoto with cherry blossom

Near Mount Hotaka

A cool mountain breeze blows past the Korean bar on the banks of the Ta river.

Happy Tea Drinking!

Monday, 24 October 2016

Sencha Tea in Kenroku-en Gardens, Kanazawa City, Ishikawa Prefecture, Japan

Fortune Cookie: 


Wisdom from life is better than the shell of a tortoise

Kenroku-en is known as one of the three great gardens of Japan.

It's a 17th century garden once run by Japan's feudal lords in the Samurai era.

Kenroku-en means garden combining six characteristics - all necessary in the ideal garden:

spaciousness, serenity, venerability, scenic views, subtle design, coolness.

There is great beauty to be realised in this garden.

Known as Little Kyoto because of the geisha and old Samurai families that still live here Kanazawa is less visited than other parts of Japan. It is 400 kilometres from Tokyo and is very different. The city lies on the far side of the Japanese Alps by the sea of Japan. There were some western visitors when I was there in the springtime but only a handful. Most of Japan away from Tokyo and Kyoto felt like this. Quiet, relaxing, self-contained.

Where you kind of had the town to yourself.

Please visit Singing Bird Tea for a small range of Vietnamese made teas including Oolongs, green, black, flower and wild tree white, green and black teas.

The Japanese are partial to drinking tea in parks. This was the botanical garden in Kanazawa, my third experience of drinking tea in a park in Japan.

Gyokusenen tea house, Kanazawa. 

This to me is an excellent habit. Pared down 'takes' on the tea ceremony are presented to all visitors for a small (for Japan) fee.

When you hand in your ticket and enter the pavillion a woman in traditional dress serves you a sencha tea and a small sweet. She assumes the kneeling position. Following the protocol you yourself are already kneeling at this point.

We can see the tatami mats here used in the tea ceremony. Often there is a single potted plant nearby. On the wall is traditional calligraphy demonstrated in the form of hanging scrolls. Usually a scroll is hung in an alcove. A well known saying or epithet relevant to the occasion is written there. The writer of the scroll needs to be virtuous as well as sentient and in possession of sapience. Sometimes the kanji on a scroll in a tea room may refer to harmony, respect, purity and tranquility; the four principles of the tea ceremony.

This made an interesting counterpoint to the local prefect working outside the garden who screamed at me when I put my bicycle in the wrong place. Interesting to note that I was shouted at more times in Japan than anywhere else I have travelled to. Usually this relates to rules. Bikes and shoes were the main thing.

After drinking the green tea, in two sips as I remember, we sat gazing out at the beautifully arranged garden. There was a low murmur of conversation; sometimes silence and the sunshine, the sound of a distant stream, birds singing.

The Japanese prepare their views so that there is nothing ugly to interfere with them.

For the Japanese understanding cannot be gained by words alone. This seems to be the norm in Buddhist countries.

As for the tea itself there was a clear, golden-green infusion. A savory character redolent of seaweed and grass notes. It's a kind of soup. It didn't quite compare to a Kageshima Sencha that, to me so far has no nonpareil in the world of Japanese tea. That said I have drunk more far tea from China, Taiwan and Vietnam than Japan. I enjoyed this tea. The steaming process produces a thickish bright green liquid, compared to thinner continental green teas. Savory, rich and satisfying.

Although the shinkansen from Tokyo is very fast, using the railway through the Alps to the Sea of Japan at Itoigawa turning left on the Hokuriku line is the best way to Kanazawa. This way you have views of snow-capped mountains, rivers and fertile valleys. I met a New Zealander on this trip, this the only non-Japanese person on a journey lasting three days in total. Quite something.

Happy Tea Drinking everyone!

Please visit Singing Bird Tea for a small range of Vietnamese made teas including Oolongs, green, black, flower and wild tree white, green and black teas.